So I've asked earlier about getting a piano set-up. According to the Steinway site and the serial # on the piano, it was built roughly in the first decade of the 1900s.....I haven't played piano in so long and I've been a guitar player for the last several years, so it definately needs a set up. However, I just read about restorations, and so what are some of the common candidates for restorations? What conditions should my piano be in, if it would be considered for a restoration? I played my piano today, and the clarity of the sound isn't quite the best, keys do sound out of tune slightly, and 1 or 2 of the keys are "heavy" and they "stick" after you hit them. Then you've got little nicks here and there in the finish, exposing some of the wood underneath. I wouldn't know about the condition inside the piano though. As a rough estimate, how much does it usually cost to do simple restorations? Sorry for my lack of knowledge also.

The common candidates for restoration are as follows.There are many varibles.
#1.The condition of the sound board,tuning pins are they tight.Do the dampers ring on the strings when they come down on the strings.
#2.You say some keys stick, this could be caused by paper or debri fallen between keys or swelling from humidity or other posibilities.
#3. The case finish on this piano ,if it is as worn as you make it sound then you probably woulb be happy just to have it refinished.
#4. the action interior workings (parts)could be worn to the point that regulation on the piano could be dificult to do if at all.
AS for prices if it is a grand or upright(what size?), and has it ever been restored before.
For grands complete restringing(the works)include refinishing inside the case and sound board and decal,guilding the plate and lettering run (my prices now!) For steinway's is $4,500.00 . Uprights $2500.to $3000. Refinishing Runs around $3000.00 for grands $ 2500 for uprights. Action rebuilds for Steinways $1000.00 uprights to.
So at the most with package pricing you could expect to pay around $8000.00 for a grand piano.These prices are high because I have had to manufacture some parts by hand and time is a consideration!.
The most important to have done should be the stringing and action.Finishing is important but not as much as the above.
Other rebuilders may charge differently.I use only Steinway parts and recomended materials on Steinway piano's.Others should to.

If when contacting various restoration centers, you come across prices that are more than 3 times the above figure, don't be surprised.

Do however, inquire as to what is involved in a comprehensive restoration, get itemized quotes, tour the various shops, speak to some of their customers, play some of their completed projects, etc.

Perhaps your local technician would be able to help determine the specific needs of your piano.

For more info:
http://ptg.org/resources-pianoOwners-rebuilding.php

Also see Fine's "The Piano Book" at lower right.

--Cy--

A good step is to start by having it tuned by a knowledgeable technician. A good tech can tell you a lot about your piano and what it needs from tuning it.

Wow are my prices realy that low.Mabe I'm behind the times.I'v got to get with it.Of course I didn't include a lot of details.wow 3 times , I will have to check Boston prices again.
Thanks

The people who are charging 3, 4 and even 5 times the above quoted prices may be doing 10 times as much work.
Generally they will be replacing the soundboard, bridges, and pinblock ( without which you cannot legitamately call it a rebuild)and some will even be replacing the keyset ( not just the key tops ), the underlever system and the action rail.
It is often a good idea to replace the lid on pre 1917 Steinways.
Early 20th century pianos that have been subjected to decades of Northeastern, Midwest, and Mid-Atlantic winters and summers need full rebuilds to perform well. And with all of the good quality new and recently used pianos available at reasonable prices, it doesn't make sense to do a 25% job on an old piano, when for not much more, you could have a very nice new or recent instrument.
There is very little charm in a piano that has a famous name on it but performs badly.

I don't replace a sound board if it is in very good condition( no cracks or warps )Why replace something that may not need to be.Every piano comes with a seperate set of needs and I address them fully and in detail.The antiquity and value of the instrument is also deminished when replacing parts unnecessarily , but again sometimes it is necessary.
I check the barring and determine if the sound board has lost its barring. The pins also are checked as well to see if there are any stress cracks ,if so I replace the bridge top or the whole bridge, but only if necessary.
I do what the customer desires for their piano ,after they have had time to go over my evaluation of the piano in question.

Hello Jeffrey,

I must say that from down here, Keith's post makes a lot of sense. Even if a soundboard is completely free of visual defects such as cracks and compression ridges, it still might not be a serviceable board. Older boards might not have sufficient stiffness remaining in the panel to produce a tone with adequate sustaining qualities. The highest loaded area of the soundboard is the second highest treble section. It is here that the first tonal deficiencies in an older board become obvious (sometimes after only five to twenty years of service). When this shortness of tone occurs, the only proper solution is board replacement, regardless of how good it might visually look.

If the soundboard of an older piano with shortness of tone is not replaced at the time of overhaul, the piano will still continue to sound like an old instrument in spite of new hammers, agraffes, reshaped capo and duplex string termination points and downbearing adjustment. As Keith suggested, doing a 25% job on an older instrument which is in need of 100% is no better than burning the cash. Many older soundboards might still have crown remaining in the bass and tenor, but be inside-out at the killer octave (second top treble section). Some technicians will measure such a board across the center of the belly in the high tenor where it is lightly loaded, and pronounce the board to be in good health while the killer octave in the second top section has totally collapsed. Beware of an incomplete diagnosis. It is commonplace.

When considering the services of a rebuilding outfit, always ask to see examples of their previous rebuilding work. If the rebuilder is doing quality work, he/she will be only too happy to refer you to clients who have had a full rebuilding job done.

All best with your search.

Ron O.

?!

Although I agree with everything else in your post, I don't believe that I've ever seen an old S&S lid that needed to be replaced except in unusual cases of obvious damage - like the one with the wooden flower box that sat on the piano for thirty years! What are you seeing that I have not?

Hello Ron,
I do check that section and of course do make the replacement if needed.I'm sorry if anyone got the impression that I short cut procedures here.It is one of the most important areas of restoration.Some times I will not do a restringing if the piano requires one and the customer does not want it done because of the price.As I said each piano comes with specific needs and they must be addressed.The customer has the final decision on what is done from there.I am greatful for your input .I have seen some newly done restringing in my area where the sound boards were cracked and replacement should have been done, but wasn't.A newly restrung 1935 Ivers and pond Parlor grand for instance was restrung suposidly "restored" , two years ago.The sound board was not replaced.I noticed the bridges were actualy saging under the pressure of the strings and no barring in any of the upper octives.The customer was not happy to hear that the replacement was necessary and the Technician who did the 'repairs' was responsible.
I do ask my potential customers to get second opinions if they have not done so before.
Thanks again ! I am Greatful

Hello Jeffrey,

Thanks for your follow up post. All the best.

Ron O.