I need input...please oh please.

A client called me with a "terrible buzzing" sound on one note in the center section. On arrival, I immediately found that the decal had lifted, and was touching that particular unison.

So, I'm at a loss as to how to get it back down. In the past, I've encountered this with old pianos, and usually (after offering the option to the customer) I basically fish out the offending flakes with a surgical tweezer. Of course, this ruins the decal, but with old pianos it can be the only option.

In THIS case, the SB is still free of grime, and the decal is very visible under clean strings, on a clean board. Also the decal is still pliable...I can push the decal back down, and it'll stay down for a time...

Thoughts? I obviously don't want to tell them to lower tension to split aside the strings for access...

What do you do when confronted with this??

Thanks in advance.

RPD

Well...the anwser is unfortunately not exactly a kosher thing to do but sometimes you got to wing it. You clean the immediate area with a soundboard brush very carefully.If you use an air compressor you'll surely blow the decal off.Than you shoot a mist coat of Deft or clear lacquer thru the strings to seal the decal.Than you immediately clean the strings with lacquer thinner.Don't tell anybody I told you this. If there is another alternative,I would surely like to know.Is it a Samick stencil piano ?

I suggest shellac. It is stickier than most other finishes.

Can Deft be thinned enough to spray from an air brush?

Not sure what Deft is but grab a spray can of shellac, Bullseye comes to mind. Spray some on a small surface like the back of a business card. Make a little puddle. Then using a very small camel hair brush spread some under the decal right at the curve where it separates from the board itself. Then using another business card start from where that curve is and move the card gently along so you reattach the separated decal slowly. This way you don’t make a crease or a fold in the decal as it goes down.

If the decal sticks by itself for a while after you press on it, you might be able to reactivate the material underneath with a little Methyl Hydrate instead. A little heat may work also.

I would try to stay away from spraying anything through the strings…… it makes a mess on more than the strings, especially if you don’t do this often. Using a brush you will have more control but a slower process…..

Thanks, much!!!! Great input....ya gotta love this place!

...and yes, it is a Samick...

Cheers, all! RPD

Another really good one for older decals coming up is a product for some of us goes back to the early elementary grades a product called Musilege.Remember this stuff??

It is a type of glue.... This way you don’t have to use the stinky chemicals…..but get a new bottle that is nice and runny. Thin coat ok

Deft is lacquer. It comes in spray cans, but it is also available canned so you can brush it on. The canned lacquer can be thinned 1:1 with lacquer thinner to spray it.

If the soundboard is finished with lacquer it might be better to use that, but with Dan's technique. Deft canned brushing lacquer is thick enough that you could do it.

Thanks Dan and everybody! This gives me food for thought and something, at least, to bring to my client.

Big time...thanks!

RPD

I'd mask each trichord with blue masking tape before spraying shellac between them. Shellac is the safest thing to spray, because it bonds with any finish. Unless you are sure of the original sound board finish type, use shellac to be safe. I've had luck gluing the decals down with white glue applied though the trichords with a Q-tip as well. Use a wedge to space the trichords apart more for access.

The reason I mentioned Deft as opposed to ? is the spray tip on their can. It disperses a very fine mist which seemed appropriate for the job not making it a major production.

Did I nail it as a Samick or what?

OK RPD, I've got a customer with a ... you guessed it, a Samick... with a SB decal lifting. So update me on what you did and if it worked. Or what you would have done differently...

Here we are years later LOL! I saw the thread and thought right away, "hey, I asked that once"....and then I noticed it WAS my thread from 2009! HA!

As memory serves, my client opted out of anything actually designed to repair the problem properly, and asked me rather than trying to re-attach the decal, to just carefully pull off the parts that were offending...they play with the lid down most of the time, and it worked...but it doesn't look nice (obviously) and this isn't a solution in my book.

After reluctantly assisting them with this, I made a decision not to let myself get talked into that again...and so far I haven't. (nobody asked though, so its not a good test of my standard yet)

But, I do think that from now on either 1. we try to re-attach it, OR 2. it comes out entirely. Either way, its a total PITA.

RPD

Well, I guess I'll have to try it. I'll report back on my success/problems...haha thx

update... I had posted this to the list and got a response back from Samick. They mentioned using either CA or 3M Plastic & Emblem Adhesive