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Joined: Dec 2009
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I have a problem with key noise on my Korg SP170. Certain keys "bobble" on release instead of returning to the at rest position, making an annoying clicking noise. I "fixed" this previously by disassembling the DP and manipulating the keys to see if I could figure out what was wrong. In the process the problem just disappeared. For a while :-0 . I also ended up with about a dozen "spare" screws. This thing is put together with a legion of small screws, cheap construction, no consideration for serviceability.
At any rate, I'm reasonably certain that the problem is lubrication, and that manipulating the action by hand got enough lubricant dispersed to temporarily fix the problem. Properly lubricating the action should result in a more lasting fix.
So, my question is, what type of lubricant should I use? Where can I get it?
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Joined: Jan 2010
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White bicycle chain fat. This is designed to be compatible with the plastics sealings that are inside better chains, and it has adhesives added that make it stay in this place where it was applied and doesnt flow away.
If lower viscosity is needed, ballbearing fat.
1929 Galaxy Blüthner Baby Grand acer aspire m3300 AMD Phenom II X6
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White bicycle chain fat. This is designed to be compatible with the plastics sealings that are inside better chains, and it has adhesives added that make it stay in this place where it was applied and doesnt flow away.
If lower viscosity is needed, ballbearing fat. You have used this? There are a number of different bicycle chain lubricants, with very different compositions, wax, teflon, lithium. "White grease" is usually lithium, I believe.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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Yikes! 10000 Post Club Member
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Yikes! 10000 Post Club Member
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I had my Clav serviced by a tech a few months ago. It needed lube under the B3 key, but I don't know what he used.
Does anyone know what the manufacturer uses?
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4000 Post Club Member
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Am I the only one with a dirty mind around here?
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Am I the only one with a dirty mind around here? Not any more. Gad, that was a poor choice of subject line...
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Joined: Jan 2010
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I used general purpose that I got here in local shops.
I think, it is important to check that viscosity and adhesivity match the intended purpose and that it is long time compatible with plastics and doesnt flow away or harden over time.
If these conditions are met, it should work. This is not a heavy duty application like in ball bearings or chains.
Avoid silicone, it dries over time and is very hostile for electrical low voltage contacts.
I hope all these trigger words dont trigger new associations ;-)
Last edited by hpeterh; 02/15/11 02:50 AM.
1929 Galaxy Blüthner Baby Grand acer aspire m3300 AMD Phenom II X6
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Am I the only one with a dirty mind around here? Don't forget the one a couple of months ago, "DP for wife for Christmas." Now there's a gift she won't forget!
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Joined: Dec 2009
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4000 Post Club Member
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Don't forget the one a couple of months ago, "DP for wife for Christmas." Now there's a gift she won't forget! Yes, an unintentional PW classic: Her screams of joy were not quite as loud as I had expected, but they were still screams of joy nonetheless. She says she loves it. Back OT, I'd try to match whatever kind of lubricant is currently on the keys. If it seems like the greasy sort, I'd probably try a bit of white lithium grease. If it is the dry sort (or nothing) then I'd try a dry lubricant on a key or two to see if that does the trick. A year or so ago our vertical blinds were binding up, so I got a spray can of "B'LASTER The Dry Lube (TDL)" and put as little as I could on the mechanisms and slider (plastic/aluminium). Good as new now.
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I bought a tube of white lithium grease. After I tore it down, it looks like they used a silicone grease on the mechanism, and a brown grease where there is a track and groove at the front of the key to keep them from moving side to side. The problem seems to be where the levers connect to the keys. There is no actual connection, the counterweight on the lever fits into a socket near the front of the key. This seems to be where the problem is, I put some grease in the sockets. The keys are in octave sets, it's almost as easy to do the set as a single key. Since it takes about an hour to disassemble and reassemble, I decided to do the whole thing except for the top and bottom octaves.
Works perfectly now. How long it will last, I'll have to wait and see.
No screams of joy, but maybe a sigh of relief.
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tink: Based on your description, your piano is very different from mine. What brand/model of piano are you referring to?
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tink: Based on your description, your piano is very different from mine. What brand/model of piano are you referring to? Korg SP170.
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Piano
by Gino2 - 04/17/24 02:34 PM
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Piano
by Gino2 - 04/17/24 02:23 PM
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