Make sure the player works and that all the keys play before you do any work on it. Preferably, have the customer demonstrate.
Check the electrical cord and plug for fraying and defects... fire hazard.
Do not use the transposer in case the tracker bar tubing has become brittle.
Short tuning tip. Edit: Or extra short tip 5 degree.
You'll want to remove the wind motor. Make a note of how the chain goes around the sprockets and bobbin before removing it.
You'll also probably want to disconnect/remove several supports between the spoolbox to the pin block area. Make note of which screw came from where.
You might be able to get away with just disconnecting the rinky-tink rail at just the treble end. Only loosen the screw at the bass end. See if you can gently finesse the rail onto the top of the pinblock to get it out of the way. (Edit: Or, on top of the soft treble pneumatic.) YMMV on this, though.
It's easiest to just tune these by machine, if available.
Take the normal precautions to avoid string breakage, especially in the bass. The strings in the bass,, especially the single string unisons, may take quite a beating after being pounded on mechanically year after year. If you are uncomfortable replacing a string on a player, either pass on the job, or warn the customer in writing first.
And now I'll put on my best-est asbestos flame-suit...
Many player owners are not musicians in any way. A=440 may not be that important to them. They just want the piano to sound good again. If the piano is flat, do you need to bring it up to A=440 all at once? Especially if it's going to be another 10 years before the piano is tuned again? If the client is aware the the piano is to be tuned a little flat, is it unethical to do so?
Like Bill Bremmer posts on here, "What do you want? Music or trouble?"
Edited by daniokeeper (01/07/12 12:39 AM)