For too long now, I have been replacing Ivory keytops with other recuperated sets.

For too long I have been frustrated at never finding the right match, even though I have hundreds to choose from.

I often prefer just replacing the whole set, instead of trying to match even six of them. It seems whatever I do, they always stand out, even though the customer is happy.

Seeing pictures of these one piece Ivories sent graciously by Dan to me, I wonder how I could even possibly match those.

So, has any of you used the AcrilyKey system, and if so was it successful, and preferable?

Thanks all

I use AcryliKey with great results.
Clients are also very happy when I'm done.
I only change fronts if the chips are not repairable.

Thanks Rod, I am looking forward to trying it out.

Any tips would be appreciated.

I recently tried the AcryliKey product. I repaired ivory chips on my Steinway with results better than I had expected. The small kit has pure white color as well as a slightly yellowed powder. Personally I always whiten my ivory keyboards. The AcryliKey has an almost invisible finish if done properly. The first time I did it I repeated the repair a few times but I eventually got the process down. You only mix enough to do one or two at a time, It sands nicely with emery files in different abrasions for coarse to fine to a pre-polish finish. I have done several field repairs since with customers very pleased with the results.

I have tried applying wafers but getting thickness' to match is difficult and time consuming. Some pianos have way to many chip and splits so I would recommend new keytops. It's a good product and is compact enough to keep in your tool case. I'd say give it a try!

Thanks very much.

I will try to take pictures of my first try.

Same here.

I like it also. I have some jewelers files that work when finishing under the lip....

Thanks very much, I thought this would be another gimmick.

I have tried every kind of combination of epoxy, ca glue, with powdered ivory that I sanded myself, to flour and sugar and every other substance that I could think of. Only to be disappointed. For years...

Then, out of despair and resignation, I would find the best match that I could, and glue it on with every possible clamps and glues that I could think of, only to be disappointed by the result. And believe me I am a key man, I just love them. And I am good at it, judging by my customers.

It's just not good enough for ME.

I feel bad thinking a few keys are from a different nice elephant, who probably died because of his tusks. I just don't want to separate them. If this acrylikey stuff works and can help me to save ivory sets, it will be a tribute to them.

I am looking forward (and due) to trying a new procedure.

Some techs are also using UV light curing surfboard repair epoxy for key chips. I tried it a few years back but wasn't entirely pleased with the results. Always ended up whiter than the ivory, even when I mixed in tint.

I tried UV curing products. I like the acrylic that the kit contains.
My wife says it the same stuff she uses for finger nails.
She purchased some today so I'm going to try it.

I hope it matches the outfit you wear to work.

Received my order today and tried it on a spare Ivory. Very nice results!

Thanks everyone.

That's what I've been using for a couple of years now.

It's less expensive and seems to work as well as the stuff used by dentists.

ddf

photos please

I won't be back in the shop until next week Dan, but I will take photos.

Thanks Del,

You mean that the fingernail acrilyc works just as well?

Do you still order the powder or is there an alternative as well?

The kit is 64$ plus 35$ shipping to Canada. I don't mind the 64$ but the shipping is way high, and that is with USPS.

Whenever I order stuff from the supply houses, I always order multiple items to make shipping more economical. Depending on how close you are to the boarder, perhaps you can find a parcel service just south of the boarder to have your items shipped to.

I rarely order stuff outside of Canada. And I have plenty of stock left over from when I had your idea.

Buying more stuff to save on shipping when you don't need it is not economical.

But I understand where you are coming from.

Regardless, even at almost 100$ for the kit, I am satisfied with the product and am confident that, after giving it one try, I will get excellent results.

Maybe I was greedy or cheap by asking if cheaper alternatives could be purchased.

I will post pictures and comments on the results.

True. My situation is probably quite different because I'm still assembling my personal tool collection.




I don't think so. It's smart to pay less if you can.

I sometimes order parts because I cannot be bothered to go and find the ones I know are somewhere.

Guess I am due for a cleanup. And better organizational skills!

Then I refuse to throw stuff away. Many times old parts recycled have saved my butt.

It's a dilemma when you get lots of parts.

Flanges, wippens, let-off rails, hammer rails, fallboards, pedals, pedal springs etc....

Old hammer sets, in case I should need to replace one of them someday. Yeah right!

Ivories, two full big drawers of them, taped together by sets etc... thousands.

You need room for that stuff, and after a while, it takes a lot of room.

Tools? Well that's another story, but the basic principle applies.

I guess my New Years resolution will be to clean-up and make choices.

Seems to. I think I heard about this first from Ryan Sowers and, when I needed something in a hurry, I went to a local beauty shop supply store and picked up a couple of different appropriate-looking colors of powder along with the liquid that goes with the powder. Smells about the same which is to say they both smell equally bad. Use with plenty of ventilation.

I've had some repaired keys out there for several years that are doing just fine.

It's a lot easier and, I think, better than trying to match original ivory heads.

ddf

Thanks very much!!!

I am so tired of trying to match them, and reticent to separate them.

My daughter used to sell Mary Kay products. And I can see how the cosmetics industry, given the profits involved, would have come up with a product.

I believe I can now find what I am looking for.

Thanks again Del!!!!!

PS and thanks to Ryan Sowers as well!

I have a couple of questions, this is an interesting thread!
Is this kit for repairing cracks or filling in chips? How would one apply if you were to use fingernail acrylic?

I believe it is chip fill and done in the same way that false nails are filled in at the cuticle as they grow.

I have not used it for cracks but I believe it would work.

We're not talking about "fingernail acrylic" as in the stuff women paint on their fingernails to make them colorful.

This is the powder/liquid stuff used to build up and/or create "artificial nails" and to make repairs to broken or damaged fingernails. Your beauty shop supply people will know the difference.

ddf

It does but you generally have to open up the crack a bit. Rather like opening up a soundboard crack to work the shims in. But in miniature. You have to be able to get the material down in there.

ddf

Please forgive me, but this thread has caused some delightfut chuckles from the way it has turned.

It's time for a new forum called the Tuner-Technician-Fingernail Salon.

I have find the white powder and monomer (not expensive)

They are very easy to use, but the final colour is slightly translucide.

Do some tried to mix with some white powder (as titanium white) ?

The mix is so strong and hard once set (very fast) I suppose it can accept a little neutral power and/or a trace of yellow acrylic colour.

The smell is awful !

If you are getting the stuff from a source that sells to "beauty shops" you are probably getting the translucent stuff intended to emulate human fingernails. Go back and ask them for the opaque variety.

In the U.S., at least, both types are available. As are powders of slightly different colors.

ddf

Thanks Del, I thought it was white because of the poweder , indeed it emulate natural fingernails.

I asked if yellow was available, and get a smile ! may be to emulate heavy smokers fingernails

Anyway a very interesting product, I used it to reinforce the plate of a speaker (where the wiring is, it was broken)

The guy told me to use the product little by little, no mix just pour the brush in the monomer then in the powder, it is almost immediate...

"...seems to work as well as the stuff used by dentists..."

I was just thinking that very thing--- that is, "Ask a dentist." They use all kinds of interesting and durable materials, which would certainly stand up as keytops, if they can stand up to living in a mouth. And, they do pretty close color-matching.

Some guys might not want to be seen going into a beauty parlor, anyway. But a dentist's office is ok.

Yeah, but have you seen how much a dentist charges?!

(And what if one of your keys needs a root canal...)

I used it today. I wanted to make a short video on the procedure, but was time constrained. So here is the final result, recorded with my iPhone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piOrzv5TFMM&feature=youtu.be

The key on the right, had the right corner chipped. The key on the left had a typical half moon chip in the middle.

I am very happy with the result.

I did experiment on quite a few spares. Seems to me that the recipe in the literature provided does not ask for enough powder.

I used the pure white at first, given the excellent state of the ivories, and ended up with a darker shade. The reason was that is was still translucent. By adding more powder, the acrylic becomes more opaque, but dries a lot faster. It turns into a paste as you apply it, which, now that I have worked with it. is actually nice. You can even reapply more and it sticks.

So, all in all, I will be visiting my local fingernail specialist soon.

Very nice job Jean. I couldn't see it!

Thanks Jerry,

It's very difficult to properly photograph or film. The video is not very good.

If you look at the reflections, the repairs can be seen. Then again it might be because I know where they are.

But it sure beats trying to match a new head. And the stuff sands and buffs just like ivory. The challenge is the mix of powder and acrylic and proper preparation.

Who knows, if the piano business goes as some pessimists say, I can always go into the fingernail business.!!!

The product I find does not need to be mixed, the brush is dipped in monomer, and a small quantity of powder grips on it, not mixed but begin to melt,

When you apply it with the brush, more monomer is added from the brush and the product have the perfect consistency. They use cat tongue shaped brush so the monomer is in the brush as in a bottle.

I was explained to make small touches , not one big. Little powder.

I used a covering white acryl an monomer for nails . Thanks Del for the opaque info, the natural quality is not adequate

It can be used to repar usual acryl glass keys too, I suppose.

Used some masking tape to avoid too much thickness on the top if the key, but it fies not make a clean surface. A brushing with almost only monimer smooth the surface if wanted .

I will go to fingernails institute to see how they use it and also how thwy work with the Dremel. They polish with grit 1000 - 4000 but the acryl is covered with Uv drying products, may be harder.

Excellent tip, the nail trade have also excellent hammer files 100-180, white and large.

You don't go into a "beauty parlor" to get this stuff, you go into the store that sells supplies to beauty parlors.

Men, even "manly" men, are allowed. Just bring money.

ddf

But you can go to a beauty parlor to ask for addresses (and telephone number) ...

Nice job Jean. I will have to order some of that product and try it out. The video is good for showing the repair. The only thing missed was turning the key over to see the underside of the repair, the overhang of the ivory.

Next video….

Here you go Dan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWJ7fVvU9z4

Good one Jean, looks nice both sides.

I will order some of the materials. Speeding up the drying/curing process by adding more powder makes sense as a certain percentage of the drying process will happen by absorption.( into the powder.)

for the nail product, it dry fast and harden totally alittle later.
For that one I was said to use little powder.

After a few tests you know how much powder is necessary with the brush you use.

I just made about ten chipped ivories . once poilished it is neat.
But I only have white, (I will try some yellow tint if necessary)

Isaac,

Post videos, Ideally with the products you used, their names and composition.

Maybe even your procedure.

I am now sold on the fact that we can repair old sets of ivory.

Much easier than trying to match. And a kind of apology to the animals that died for it. If their tusks can live for decades, I feel good giving them another few.

Jean

The stuff dries fast, and stinks. What is really nice is that you can work it as it hardens.

So if it's a big chip, when it's fresh, 30 seconds or so, it runs. Too liquid.

After a minute to a minute and a half, it starts to gel. Now you can actually shape it. The kit comes with wooden type tooth picks, one end flat and the other rounded, they work all right.

Preparation is key. Gutters and flow patterns etc... Small plastic spatula type tools work better.

Timing is everything, this stuff dries FAST.

At five minutes you are already too late.

So, preparation is crucial.

Jean, we certainly use similar products. I made pics but it does not show the process.

I could make a video for the last ivory I have to do. The backing tope of double face tape can help to mold. I did not shape the paste much, only file later, (it is shaped a little while pouring it, with the brush) you gain time with the spatula Iwas afraid that the product did not hold well.

I wanted to see how they do in the nail trade , so to be sure to understand how they mix the powder, quantities.
Taking the powder directly in a cup, with the brush dipped in the liquid (in a small glass jar) is efficient to regulate the amount of liquid.
If the brush is dipped too frankly, too much powder adhere on it, but it you only take a little, you may put it without too much pressure on the brush.

On the akrylikey instructions, do they say make the mix on a glass plate ? I frankly find the mix easy to do, I am just unsure of the quantity to have the stronger bond. I also did not find any yellowish or cream looking powder, so I will make tests with yellow stain if necessary (concentrated stains for laquer and polyester) difficult to find the good color probably.

That is the kind of powder , it comes from Germany. I find the monomer in a beauty shop, and baught small jars and glass jar on the net, same supplier. All those products must be cheap, I have seen prices from 1 to 4 so some web sites may be exagerating.

Their burnishers may be worth a try (sanding block 1000-4000)

Very interesting thread, thanks for sharing the information.

About molding, it is done with a brush, in the nail trade.

A good solution (the adapted brush contsins quite some monomer)
Because it soften the paste better than a wooden spatula. The paste hardens very fast

They use an agent for better adhesion. Possibly only a cleaner with isopropyl.

This is worth to be tested if the adhesion is better. I just use pure isopropyl.