If you are getting the stuff from a source that sells to "beauty shops" you are probably getting the translucent stuff intended to emulate human fingernails. Go back and ask them for the opaque variety.

In the U.S., at least, both types are available. As are powders of slightly different colors.

ddf

Thanks Del, I thought it was white because of the poweder , indeed it emulate natural fingernails.

I asked if yellow was available, and get a smile ! may be to emulate heavy smokers fingernails

Anyway a very interesting product, I used it to reinforce the plate of a speaker (where the wiring is, it was broken)

The guy told me to use the product little by little, no mix just pour the brush in the monomer then in the powder, it is almost immediate...

"...seems to work as well as the stuff used by dentists..."

I was just thinking that very thing--- that is, "Ask a dentist." They use all kinds of interesting and durable materials, which would certainly stand up as keytops, if they can stand up to living in a mouth. And, they do pretty close color-matching.

Some guys might not want to be seen going into a beauty parlor, anyway. But a dentist's office is ok.

Yeah, but have you seen how much a dentist charges?!

(And what if one of your keys needs a root canal...)

I used it today. I wanted to make a short video on the procedure, but was time constrained. So here is the final result, recorded with my iPhone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piOrzv5TFMM&feature=youtu.be

The key on the right, had the right corner chipped. The key on the left had a typical half moon chip in the middle.

I am very happy with the result.

I did experiment on quite a few spares. Seems to me that the recipe in the literature provided does not ask for enough powder.

I used the pure white at first, given the excellent state of the ivories, and ended up with a darker shade. The reason was that is was still translucent. By adding more powder, the acrylic becomes more opaque, but dries a lot faster. It turns into a paste as you apply it, which, now that I have worked with it. is actually nice. You can even reapply more and it sticks.

So, all in all, I will be visiting my local fingernail specialist soon.

Very nice job Jean. I couldn't see it!

Thanks Jerry,

It's very difficult to properly photograph or film. The video is not very good.

If you look at the reflections, the repairs can be seen. Then again it might be because I know where they are.

But it sure beats trying to match a new head. And the stuff sands and buffs just like ivory. The challenge is the mix of powder and acrylic and proper preparation.

Who knows, if the piano business goes as some pessimists say, I can always go into the fingernail business.!!!

The product I find does not need to be mixed, the brush is dipped in monomer, and a small quantity of powder grips on it, not mixed but begin to melt,

When you apply it with the brush, more monomer is added from the brush and the product have the perfect consistency. They use cat tongue shaped brush so the monomer is in the brush as in a bottle.

I was explained to make small touches , not one big. Little powder.

I used a covering white acryl an monomer for nails . Thanks Del for the opaque info, the natural quality is not adequate

It can be used to repar usual acryl glass keys too, I suppose.

Used some masking tape to avoid too much thickness on the top if the key, but it fies not make a clean surface. A brushing with almost only monimer smooth the surface if wanted .

I will go to fingernails institute to see how they use it and also how thwy work with the Dremel. They polish with grit 1000 - 4000 but the acryl is covered with Uv drying products, may be harder.

Excellent tip, the nail trade have also excellent hammer files 100-180, white and large.

You don't go into a "beauty parlor" to get this stuff, you go into the store that sells supplies to beauty parlors.

Men, even "manly" men, are allowed. Just bring money.

ddf

But you can go to a beauty parlor to ask for addresses (and telephone number) ...

Nice job Jean. I will have to order some of that product and try it out. The video is good for showing the repair. The only thing missed was turning the key over to see the underside of the repair, the overhang of the ivory.

Next video….

Here you go Dan.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWJ7fVvU9z4

Good one Jean, looks nice both sides.

I will order some of the materials. Speeding up the drying/curing process by adding more powder makes sense as a certain percentage of the drying process will happen by absorption.( into the powder.)

for the nail product, it dry fast and harden totally alittle later.
For that one I was said to use little powder.

After a few tests you know how much powder is necessary with the brush you use.

I just made about ten chipped ivories . once poilished it is neat.
But I only have white, (I will try some yellow tint if necessary)

Isaac,

Post videos, Ideally with the products you used, their names and composition.

Maybe even your procedure.

I am now sold on the fact that we can repair old sets of ivory.

Much easier than trying to match. And a kind of apology to the animals that died for it. If their tusks can live for decades, I feel good giving them another few.

Jean

The stuff dries fast, and stinks. What is really nice is that you can work it as it hardens.

So if it's a big chip, when it's fresh, 30 seconds or so, it runs. Too liquid.

After a minute to a minute and a half, it starts to gel. Now you can actually shape it. The kit comes with wooden type tooth picks, one end flat and the other rounded, they work all right.

Preparation is key. Gutters and flow patterns etc... Small plastic spatula type tools work better.

Timing is everything, this stuff dries FAST.

At five minutes you are already too late.

So, preparation is crucial.

Jean, we certainly use similar products. I made pics but it does not show the process.

I could make a video for the last ivory I have to do. The backing tope of double face tape can help to mold. I did not shape the paste much, only file later, (it is shaped a little while pouring it, with the brush) you gain time with the spatula Iwas afraid that the product did not hold well.

I wanted to see how they do in the nail trade , so to be sure to understand how they mix the powder, quantities.
Taking the powder directly in a cup, with the brush dipped in the liquid (in a small glass jar) is efficient to regulate the amount of liquid.
If the brush is dipped too frankly, too much powder adhere on it, but it you only take a little, you may put it without too much pressure on the brush.

On the akrylikey instructions, do they say make the mix on a glass plate ? I frankly find the mix easy to do, I am just unsure of the quantity to have the stronger bond. I also did not find any yellowish or cream looking powder, so I will make tests with yellow stain if necessary (concentrated stains for laquer and polyester) difficult to find the good color probably.

That is the kind of powder , it comes from Germany. I find the monomer in a beauty shop, and baught small jars and glass jar on the net, same supplier. All those products must be cheap, I have seen prices from 1 to 4 so some web sites may be exagerating.

Their burnishers may be worth a try (sanding block 1000-4000)

Very interesting thread, thanks for sharing the information.

About molding, it is done with a brush, in the nail trade.

A good solution (the adapted brush contsins quite some monomer)
Because it soften the paste better than a wooden spatula. The paste hardens very fast

They use an agent for better adhesion. Possibly only a cleaner with isopropyl.

This is worth to be tested if the adhesion is better. I just use pure isopropyl.