Marty, Norbert, Larry - thanks! I would definitely take anything I do with a grain of salt - I am a complete novice here. Just going on what I've read in Reblitz's book and what I can find searching the internet.
If you go to google and type: site:pianoworld.com what you're searching for
you can use google to search just pianoworld, which has been very handy. I also use site:mail.ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech/ what you're searching for
to search the pianotech mailing list archives from the PTG - there are a lot of good discussions there.
Anyway, here is a summary of today's work, likely my last update for a little while as the weekend is almost over.
I completed tuning the entire piano, stem to stern, 100 cent (one semitone) flat using Tunelab.
First off, Tunelab is awesome software. Just go to Help -> Tutorial to get started. In short, just take your inharmonicity readings (I did all the C's) using the "M" key, and then press "T" to go to the tuning curve, and press "U" to set your stretch curve automatically. Then close that window, and begin tuning, either typing in notes or using the left and right arrows to switch notes. If you are using the demo version, it will make you wait for 2 minutes every 12 notes, so it's best to minimize note switching. Or just pay the $300. I may just do that before I tune next.
If you are using Tunelab, or any other computerized tuner, you can start tuning anywhere (you don't need to tune a temperment octave). I would recommend starting with the bass stings and working your way up; I found them the easiest to tune (I actually started in the middle). The last two octaves of the treble were a real pain due to the tight working conditions and difficulty muting the strings. The rubber mutes with the metal handles are a lifesaver for an upright, because you can jam the mutes all different ways to get the right muting. The plastic "Papps Treble Mute" is OK, handy in a few situations, but the rubber mutes are far more effective at actually silencing the strings - at least on my piano.
End result: my piano is playable and sounds 100 times better than before. The tuning is not perfect, probably pretty bad honestly (I can hear some beats in some of the unisions that I need to fix), but it is such an improvement from "not being tuned for ten years" that I'm very happy with it.
I also had time to do a little bit of work on the various felts that are easy to replace while the action is out.
First off is that nasty old damper-lifter rod (for the sustain pedal). Pretty crusty.
To remove the leather, I slowly picked it back from the wood and let a lot of vinegar soak down into the gap. Then I let it sit, peeled back a little more, and added more vinegar. Repeat until done.
Ahh, nice and clean:
And installed in the piano! I cut down a spare front rail punching to fit, and then cut a piece of buckskin to match the original. It actually made a big difference - the sustain pedal mechanism is quieter now.
Luckily, a lot of the trapwork bushings are just the same size as felt balance rail punchings. Pretty easy to fix.
I soak them in pure vinegar for five or ten minutes, and then they just scrape right off. Here's an example:
I have found that a plastic scraper (available at most hardware stores cheap) gives good results - a metal scraper is too dangerous to the wood.
Here is the lever for the damper lift rod, complete with four new bushings:
Also, that nameboard felt (what the top, flat surface of the keys hit against, visible from the outside of the piano, usually red) looked pretty bad - the blue was so faded that from the outside it had lost its color and just looked like dirty wool.
So I replaced it with a nice black peel-and-stick strip
Other items on the list of felt replacements are the muffler rail felts and bushings, and basically the entire trapwork that is behind the knee panel - the felts down there are in pretty poor shape. And of course, trying to learn how to read music and play the dang thing!