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Generally available at any customer place : water, alcohol, you can use a small brush to dose.

Ask for some vodka if no alcohol!

Thank you for the posts Mark, Olek and Gadzar. Mark, sadly I think you're absolutely right about these pianos. My technician and I discussed that early on when I purchased it from a woman here in Halifax in 2008. Over time I've come to notice how loud the action can be. In hindsight I should have taken more time to look around, but as I only play for my own enjoyment it gets by. Down the road I see myself likely selling and getting a new one from Dr. Piano, if the military has me still living in Halifax.

Until then, I'm going to keep learning and try to make corrections to improve it. So, next step, I need to buy a screw driver that can easily reach the screw at the damper flange so I can get a better look at that problem. Hopefully will pick it up tonight.

I appreciate everyone taking the time to look at the photos and videos I've been posting - your comments have been very helpful.

Hello again. I've removed the lever and flange with no difficulty. I've taken a video which I believe demonstrates the stiffness at the articulation between the flange and lever. Here it is: http://www.mvgrafx.net/~james/leverflange.mp4

Again, what I'd like to confirm is 1) Will a water/alcohol solution take care of this and if so, do I dismantle the pieces and then apply the solution, let dry, then reassemble? 2) If the answer to number 1 is no, what would be my next option?

Thanks again!

No dismounting, just moisten with a drop on cloth an wood (in Renner factory the parts are literally put in the bath of product)

looks very stiff really

try 50/50 use isopropyl alcohol if you have some.
I use distilled or clean water

And wait 8 hours - do it again if not enough effect.

Check all others while you are at it, by feel, use a pencil/small brush handle or a light stick (chinese ) of some sort to raise each lever, you will feel better the friction (the anckle stay on the keybed).

a drop of CLP sometime cures the problem, but it will be back in 6 months or so then. You cannot dismount without changing the pin.
If the problem comes from flaking nickel the moisture will correct it but it will need to be cured more in deep some day.

But I doubt it is the case.

With wear , the surface treatment contaminates the cloth, so friction may raise. after curing the physical sizing, you may wish to ad some CLP lube, as a precaution. but I rarely think that way, as I have seen centers that tend to migrate from the birdeye when CLP is lubing anything. (so just the cloth, in case)

Goo luck.

Sadly, about 11 hours after application, there seems to be little to no improvement. In case I applied more solution than needed I will wait til morning to see if there a difference. Maybe there's still some moisture there. I used a 50/50 solution. Is repining my only other option if this won't work?

Repinning is your best option.

Jamie,

In the picture "Corrected1" you can see that the stock from which the key set was cut, changes in D1 (key no. 6). In other words, two pieces of stock were glued together at that point. I wonder whether this was actually the cause of the warping. If one part of the keystick shrunk more than the other, it would naturally warp to that side.

Yes, stronger mix too I. E. 70%alcohol. If not resin, but those sort of problem can be expected on other notes, hence the advantage to use the sizing solution.

It is rare that zI need to repair in your situation. Possible warped center or flakes indeed.

I happen to cure an action in 3 days, with 3 applications. (and once much more but the bushings where silk) So try again.
If the cloth is synthetic, we do not have the shrinking effect, or not much.

Mark, I hadn't even considered that. You're probably 100% correct though, like the old fashioned metal coils in a thermostat with two different metals on each side that expand at different rates. I'm curious then, as the season changes if I'll see continued changes in that particular keys stick...

Olek,

I applied a stronger alcohol solution again this morning. We'll see how that works out tonight. I'm hoping this will work because right now I don't have the tools, supplies, or knowledge to change a pin.

I had a glance at the video. The lever flange is too stiff to remedy with solution and the pin will have to be changed out.

Take the piece to a tech in your area and have them change the flange pin.

Also while the mechanics are apart have a look at key number 73. This one may give problems with binding if it decides to warp any further.

Hello I'm back.

Still haven't resolved my damper flange issue (and a couple other new ones are beginning to be sluggish too). I decided I wanted to try a lubricant, but I'm afraid I might have order the incorrect product. From www.pianophile.com I ordered "McLube Colorless Teflon-type lubricant for center pins, key pins, player motors, etc. 16 oz. Aerosol spray."Something tells me that's not what I should have gotten...thoughts?

Hi Jamie - it really isn't worth messing about trying to free flanges, in my experience, the fastest and most reliable solution is to recentre ...you'll get an immediate and permanent repair. I'd be very surprised if that were the only one that needs looking at, and judging by the tightness considering the amount of lead weights, if repinned, I would expect quite an improvement making the whole action much lighter to play.

*sigh* that sucks because I have no idea how to re-pin. I wonder if I should try figure this out or just pay my regular professional to do it. There's about 8 keys requiring attention. What might the cost of that be?

Maybe you can do it your self. You need a center pin punch, some center pins of the right size, a rim, cutting pliers and a lot of courage.

(My emphasis)

I think Rafael may be referring to a "reamer", i.e. a set of reaming and burnishing tools (bushing broaches).

Yes I am. Sorry for the orthography. There is a tapered reamer which can be used instead of the whole set of different sized reamers.

Some people might shoot me down, but I do not use those various sized broaches. I have only ever used a tapered reamer, tapered rat tail file and tapered burnisher. It may take longer but I come in from both sides with the tapered tool to the point that I think is right and then test with a pin. Repeat if necessary. I get used to the right level along the tool to go up to as well as the feel of the right friction when using the tool. I also think that I can get more precision and evenness for both sides of the flange.

I only have the straight reamers of different sizes. They work fine. One has to be judicious. Reaming only one or two times, no more. And it is possible to ream just one side of the flange if needed. They can be used as burnisher as only a portion is filed (sharp?) and the rest is smooth.

I've never tried the tapered reamer.

Once, I had to work more than 53 mils, which is the greater reamer's size, so I filed a center pin with emery cloth and passed trough the bushings. It worked wonderfully, though it is not comfortable to handle.

That's it. No need to buy the reamer! You can use a filed center pin!

How I didn't think of it!?

Hello again,

So before I spill out the money for all the necessary repinning tools, I'm going to be giving Protek CPL a try. I have a hypo-oiler bottle ready and the Protek should be here in a day or two. I just want to be sure I understand the process. Do I leave the pin in place and simply apply on the ends and bushing and let it soak in? Or, am I supposed to be removeing the pin and placing it back in?

Oh, and incidnetally, I noticed this morning that on one flange, the pin and bushing looked neat and clean on one side, but on the other, it was as if there was excess bushing cloth - I couldn't even see the end of the pin on that side. I used some pointy-tipped tweezers to clearn the clother away a bit and already the level now falls under its own weight FAR better than it had. I'll post a pic later today.