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bkw58 Offline OP

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Unsolved mystery: How did he do it?

After some 50 years an old tuner in the area passed away and in due course a few of us started picking up his business.

Some of these pianos hadn't been tuned in six months. Most had not been tuned in a year or more and some two or three years. Almost without exception these were found either in-tune, with just a few wavy unisons, or the tuning generally just barely out.

The pianos were various brands (mostly Baldwin and Kawai), and sizes, both upright and grand, perhaps 10+ years old (none older than 40), in-homes, and always sharp (A442-445.) None were found flat - not even in the winter. None had humidity control systems - neither partial nor complete.

What I know of his tuning technique sheds but little light on this rather large exception to the rule; it does not do enough to explain how these pianos seemed to be resistant to that which typically limits the efficacy of a tuning to six months or less - in Arkansas: frequent and wide swings in RH.

My guess? It had something to do with how he "broke in" these pianos. But I really do not know. He took that secret to the grave some 20 years ago.

Was wondering if any of you have happened upon this or similar and what, if anything, did you conclude? Real or just coincidental?

Last edited by bkw58; 12/16/14 11:32 AM. Reason: typos

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I have been thinking about this lately.

I tune being mindful of the non speaking length tension. I try to leave it equal or slightly higher than the speaking length.

But, I have been thinking that if it is Winter, the soundboard will rise in Summer and can cause the strings to go sharp. But if I leave the NSL tension lower, but not so low that the string goes flat on hard blows, then in the Summer when the board flattens, the NSL tension may not be able to pull up the string as much.

In any case, I know that pianos I tune regularly don't need as much tweaking.


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bkw58 Offline OP

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Originally Posted by Mark Cerisano, RPT
I have been thinking about this lately.

I tune being mindful of the non speaking length tension. I try to leave it equal or slightly higher than the speaking length.

But, I have been thinking that if it is Winter, the soundboard will rise in Summer and can cause the strings to go sharp. But if I leave the NSL tension lower, but not so low that the string goes flat on hard blows, then in the Summer when the board flattens, the NSL tension may not be able to pull up the string as much.

In any case, I know that pianos I tune regularly don't need as much tweaking.



Thanks, Mark. Do you mean "then in the Summer when the board flattens" or that it rises or expands? Not sure I follow.


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First of all how does one measure NSL?


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All pianos come out of the factory sharp, sometimes very. If they can be kept sharp in the store, this is a good start to stability. Let them lose pitch by themselves. Tuners of old used to say never tune downward, always tune upward, meaning the general pitch of the piano and the last pin movement of every pin setting.

Being somewhat a gypsy, it's a tendency to seek pastures new, I have started many businesses with immediate success. This means I have left many clients in the hands of tuners I have befriended. When I stay in touch with them, they always mention how my pianos have stayed in tune for years before my ex clients finally call them.

I have always followed this maxim of avoiding lowering the pitch but to let any lowering take place naturally.

With an older piano, the first thing I did was to raise the pitch slightly above standard. An older piano doesn't need much and let the pitch float downward with each successive tuning.

Awareness of the season, the way pianos behave in your specific area climate vagaries, the type of use of the piano, etc. if the piano does show more pitch loss than expected, bring it slightly sharp again at the next tuning. I don't believe in tuning a piano Amy more than I'd really necessary, always telling clients to call me when they're good n ready but try not to leave it longer than a year.

This makes for easier tuning at each visit never doing more than is necessary to get all the intervals in proportion to each other Too many tuners approach each job as an exercise in tuning when all that is necessary is to show an understanding of pianos and do only what is necessary. This leaves time to tune the customer also. that is most important.

One reason concert instruments need so much attention is that pitch sometimes has to be lowered but on a domestic situation, even with teenagers learning other instruments, keeping the instrument slightly sharp helps stability for the very practical reasons mentioned. I always mention this in tuning the customer, jack Codd, of Whelpdale Maxwell and always told me to time the customer, the piano will look after itself. I believe thus is what he, too, meant. Tuning a piano is not the big deal many tuners want to make it. As with anything else, the secret to success is in the preparation.


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Stability comes with practice....lots and lots of practice and experience in the field. There is a 'feel' to the set of a properly positioned pin that is damn near impossible to express.

I just returned to a piano that I last tuned 3 years ago, a Yamaha C3, and found not a single string more than a cent or two from bang-on. The piano sounded good, and the owner admitted that they had not called, because the piano sounded just fine. And...honestly?...it still did. Mind you, this is a professional player who also plays viola, seriously good musician with good ears. I could only criticize a few notes in the high treble, for unison, but not really anything seriously wrong or flat anywhere in the instrument. Dang!

My wife jokes that I put myself out-of-business with the stability that I put into tunings. (sigh)

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Originally Posted by TunerJeff
Stability comes with practice....lots and lots of practice and experience in the field. There is a 'feel' to the set of a properly positioned pin that is damn near impossible to express.

This is exactly the reason that I have to smile a bit at some of the posts here extolling one pin setting method or another, and often try to get posters out of the weed patch of theorizing. If you are teaching neophytes, yes, you do have to think up some sort of way to convey what the goal is, but in reality, experience is the only reliable teacher. To put that experience into words is yes "damn bear impossible"!


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Originally Posted by David Jenson
Originally Posted by TunerJeff
Stability comes with practice....lots and lots of practice and experience in the field. There is a 'feel' to the set of a properly positioned pin that is damn near impossible to express.

This is exactly the reason that I have to smile a bit at some of the posts here extolling one pin setting method or another, and often try to get posters out of the weed patch of theorizing. If you are teaching neophytes, yes, you do have to think up some sort of way to convey what the goal is, but in reality, experience is the only reliable teacher. To put that experience into words is yes "damn bear impossible"!


The biggest problem for me regarding stability, is that of isolating effects of my technique from everything else. Environment, temperature, humidity etc. But also the fact that I am only tuning one piano, my own. I don't know what is due to my technique, what is due to my piano and what is due to my environment.

But my stability is getting better.


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bkw58 Offline OP

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Originally Posted by rxd
All pianos come out of the factory sharp, sometimes very. If they can be kept sharp in the store, this is a good start to stability. Let them lose pitch by themselves. Tuners of old used to say never tune downward, always tune upward, meaning the general pitch of the piano and the last pin movement of every pin setting.

Being somewhat a gypsy, it's a tendency to seek pastures new, I have started many businesses with immediate success. This means I have left many clients in the hands of tuners I have befriended. When I stay in touch with them, they always mention how my pianos have stayed in tune for years before my ex clients finally call them.

I have always followed this maxim of avoiding lowering the pitch but to let any lowering take place naturally.

With an older piano, the first thing I did was to raise the pitch slightly above standard. An older piano doesn't need much and let the pitch float downward with each successive tuning.

Awareness of the season, the way pianos behave in your specific area climate vagaries, the type of use of the piano, etc. if the piano does show more pitch loss than expected, bring it slightly sharp again at the next tuning. I don't believe in tuning a piano Amy more than I'd really necessary, always telling clients to call me when they're good n ready but try not to leave it longer than a year.

This makes for easier tuning at each visit never doing more than is necessary to get all the intervals in proportion to each other Too many tuners approach each job as an exercise in tuning when all that is necessary is to show an understanding of pianos and do only what is necessary. This leaves time to tune the customer also. that is most important.

One reason concert instruments need so much attention is that pitch sometimes has to be lowered but on a domestic situation, even with teenagers learning other instruments, keeping the instrument slightly sharp helps stability for the very practical reasons mentioned. I always mention this in tuning the customer, jack Codd, of Whelpdale Maxwell and always told me to time the customer, the piano will look after itself. I believe thus is what he, too, meant. Tuning a piano is not the big deal many tuners want to make it. As with anything else, the secret to success is in the preparation.


Thank you, rxd. I had wondered about this too. I know that the tuner in question always prepped new pianos slightly sharp. As mentioned in the OP, many years later these pianos were always found sharp - often very sharp. This could very well imply that, in practice, he never tuned down.

This leads, then, to another question: Is there something at work in the dynamics or engineering of the piano itself that could account for enhanced or longer lasting tuning when the instrument is continuously tuned up and maintained sharp? Such that would make it more resistant to the things that typically cause a piano to go out of tune?

Last edited by bkw58; 12/19/14 10:22 AM. Reason: clarity

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Originally Posted by David Jenson
Originally Posted by TunerJeff
Stability comes with practice....lots and lots of practice and experience in the field. There is a 'feel' to the set of a properly positioned pin that is damn near impossible to express.

This is exactly the reason that I have to smile a bit at some of the posts here extolling one pin setting method or another, and often try to get posters out of the weed patch of theorizing. If you are teaching neophytes, yes, you do have to think up some sort of way to convey what the goal is, but in reality, experience is the only reliable teacher. To put that experience into words is yes "damn bear impossible"!


Well, I'll be doing it in Denver. Hope to see you there.

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Originally Posted by SMHaley
First of all how does one measure NSL?


You can't, but you can guess where it is by what you did to the pin. I.e. if your last motion is to massage the pin down with the hammer at 11:00 on an upright, then on After Tuning, the pin will unbend and untwist, thereby adding tension to the NSL.

You do not want to leave the NSL low because you risk the string slipping on hard blows. This 11:00 massage down ensures we are "off the bottom". Maybe not enough? Maybe too much? Experience helps. And test blows.

BTW, we can measure NSL tension with test blows. If the string slips and the pitch drops, that proves that the NSL tension was low in the Tension Band, and on hard blows, the Tension Band narrows and if the NSL tension falls outside the the Band, the string slips.

Hope that is clearer.

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Originally Posted by bkw58
Originally Posted by Mark Cerisano, RPT
I have been thinking about this lately.

I tune being mindful of the non speaking length tension. I try to leave it equal or slightly higher than the speaking length.

But, I have been thinking that if it is Winter, the soundboard will rise in Summer and can cause the strings to go sharp. But if I leave the NSL tension lower, but not so low that the string goes flat on hard blows, then in the Summer when the board flattens, the NSL tension may not be able to pull up the string as much.

In any case, I know that pianos I tune regularly don't need as much tweaking.



Thanks, Mark. Do you mean "then in the Summer when the board flattens" or that it rises or expands? Not sure I follow.


Whoops. Thanks. I have Directional Dyslexia. Never heard of it before but it is the only way to explain these kind of mistakes that I often make when describing things.

Yes,
Winter: board flat
Tune NSL HIGH, wants to pull string sharp. NSL > SL
then...
Summer: board rises. SL increase. NSL = SL. Decreases difference across bearing points. Less slipping.

or

Summer: board high
Tune NSL low or equal. NSL = SL
Winter: board flattens. SL decreases. NSL > SL. If not too much, then stability, some claim NSL > SL is superior to NSL = SL.

This is all mind candy. I do not tune like this (but when I read what I wrote, it sounds so simple, I'm going to start trying it out).

Does anybody do this?

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While it is perhaps mincing words I tend to think of it as keep all lengths of the string (both speaking and non) at equilibrium with each other (not just front length). Essentially since the pressure at the bearing points can vary from note to note and influence rendering. I think someone used the phrase "tick, tick, BOING."


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Originally Posted by bkw58
Originally Posted by rxd
All pianos come out of the factory sharp, sometimes very. If they can be kept sharp in the store, this is a good start to stability. Let them lose pitch by themselves. Tuners of old used to say never tune downward, always tune upward, meaning the general pitch of the piano and the last pin movement of every pin setting.

Being somewhat a gypsy, it's a tendency to seek pastures new, I have started many businesses with immediate success. This means I have left many clients in the hands of tuners I have befriended. When I stay in touch with them, they always mention how my pianos have stayed in tune for years before my ex clients finally call them.

I have always followed this maxim of avoiding lowering the pitch but to let any lowering take place naturally.

With an older piano, the first thing I did was to raise the pitch slightly above standard. An older piano doesn't need much and let the pitch float downward with each successive tuning.

Awareness of the season, the way pianos behave in your specific area climate vagaries, the type of use of the piano, etc. if the piano does show more pitch loss than expected, bring it slightly sharp again at the next tuning. I don't believe in tuning a piano Amy more than I'd really necessary, always telling clients to call me when they're good n ready but try not to leave it longer than a year.

This makes for easier tuning at each visit never doing more than is necessary to get all the intervals in proportion to each other Too many tuners approach each job as an exercise in tuning when all that is necessary is to show an understanding of pianos and do only what is necessary. This leaves time to tune the customer also. that is most important.

One reason concert instruments need so much attention is that pitch sometimes has to be lowered but on a domestic situation, even with teenagers learning other instruments, keeping the instrument slightly sharp helps stability for the very practical reasons mentioned. I always mention this in tuning the customer, jack Codd, of Whelpdale Maxwell and always told me to time the customer, the piano will look after itself. I believe thus is what he, too, meant. Tuning a piano is not the big deal many tuners want to make it. As with anything else, the secret to success is in the preparation.


Thank you, rxd. I had wondered about this too. I know that the tuner in question always prepped new pianos slightly sharp. As mentioned in the OP, many years later these pianos were always found sharp - often very sharp. This could very well imply that, in practice, he never tuned down.

This leads, then, to another question: Is there something at work in the dynamics or engineering of the piano itself that could account for enhanced or longer lasting tuning when the instrument is continuously tuned up and maintained sharp? Such that would make it more resistant to the things that typically cause a piano to go out of tune?


I was taught in a long tradition of tuning to the fifth and sixth octave, that is, moving those notes as little as possible. This keeps the piano within standard pitch parameters. When a piano is tuned skilfully, those octaves don't move as much as the rest of the piano.

So I do some pitch lowering for practical reasons but only when really really necessary.

I have worked in areas of great pitch drift but not, admittedly the deep frozen northern states. I have, however discussed this very point with Jerry Groot and he has pianos that would always hover around standard pitch using this method. I'm sure Bill has his share, too.

I really have no explanation and your guess is as good as mine. As with most quasi scientific explanations of piano related phenomena, it is of absolutely no consequence to me in the face of what works every day for those of us that do it.


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I think some people have the touch, and some do not. A test such as that given by the Piano Technicians Guild is not sufficient to tell. You need to judge yourself by the customers who do not call you back for several years.


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All the skills in the world will be of no use without a basic understanding of the nature of pianos. This can take years of experience.

Fortunately, that is not necessary. My first real job was with an international company where most all domestic tunings were four times a year. I was taught by the senior tuner to find my starting A3 as a tempered 17th from C#6. This had been standard technique since the earliest days. It nearly always put me within the parameters of standard pitch. (Standard + 1Hz., perhaps a little more if you think you can get away with it but never below standard). For a young tuner still having trouble with stability in the 5th&6th octaves, given this responsible position was a godsend.
In any case, having to change the pitch too much in octaves 5-6 is fatal to stability , even with all the experience in the world.

I give this tried and tested framework for anyone. Hope it helps. The last time I gave it, it was theoretically argued against but on researching the arguers, I couldn't find any real experience or practical authority behind them.


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The simplest model of how the tuning pin/pin block/strings interact to influence tuning stability that I can think of is.

For a string to be at a stable pitch the tuning pin must be in such a position that it will not creep either torsionally or transversely by any playing activity of a pianist. This elastic creeping occurs mostly above the pin block. The key to stability is to have the rotational position of the pin in the pin-block such that slight torsional and/or transverse movement of the pin segment above the block with the tuning hammer will center the pitch of the string perfectly, so that it does not move flat or sharp in response to a vigorous blow from the piano hammer.

When we first turn a pin in the block-it deforms both torsional and transverse. This elastic deformity must be reduced before the string will stay at a stable pitch. The whole system is a collection of connected springs. You must feel what is happening with each element when tuning to arrive at a stable tuning.


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While individual strings stayin put forms a good part of a piano staying in tune, this is about a more gestalt aspect of tuning whereby a few successive tunings by the same tuner will cause all sections of the piano to stay in close relationship to each other for years.

Experienced Itinerant tuners notice that the work of one tuner persistently stays through seasonal changes better than the work of others.

It is something over and above mere excellent pin setting. The consensus so far is not to jack the pitch around more than absolutely necessary among other considerations.

One of those is attitude. Obsessives will lock the pitch down to standard at every visit which is rather like a stopped clock being right twice a day,. It is only ever on pitch twice a year. Also a sense of efficiency on the part of the tuner and a tauist attitude of going with the flow. Not all these attributes come naturally to many people, they have to control evrything.

Last edited by rxd; 12/22/14 09:41 AM. Reason: Spill chucker
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bkw58 Offline OP

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Originally Posted by rxd
While individual strings stayin put forms a good part of a piano staying in tune, this is about a more gestalt aspect of tuning whereby a few successive tunings by the same tuner will cause all sections of the piano to stay in close relationship to each other for years.

Experienced Itinerant tuners notice that the work of one tuner persistently stays through seasonal changes better than the work of others.

It is something over and above mere excellent pin setting. The consensus so far is not to jack the pitch around more than absolutely necessary among other considerations.

One of those is attitude. Obsessives will lock the pitch down to standard at every visit which is rather like a stopped clock being right twice a day,. It is only ever on pitch twice a year. Also a sense of efficiency on the part of the tuner and a tauist attitude of going with the flow. Not all these attributes come naturally to many people, they have to control evrything.


+1


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