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yes, the usual sharp height is 12,5 mm above naturals but their position at full dip need to be checked.
now as I need to adjust sharps dip by feel , providing the same aftertouch sensation than the one precisely obtained on white keys (with thickness jauges for instance) , that job done from the sharp at full dip may leave some possibilities to fine adjust them later.
so itis just a check, probably. if white keys where recovered with plastic without thinning of the key height , compromise need to be done with sharps.
better lower the thickness of white keys and avoid that trouble.
ebony sharps are planed and edges reshaped, so they may loose a little height then, but I dont think it is very significative.
Professional of the profession. Foo Foo specialist I wish to add some kind and sensitive phrase but nothing comes to mind.!
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The height of white keys is set at the top of the key. The dip is measured from that height. The thickness of the key covering has nothing to do with it. If a new key cover is thicker, you just remove punchings until the height is what it should be. Usually, if the keytops are shot, it is time to replace the punchings anyway.
These measurements are often not specified exactly. It makes a difference where you measure height and dip, and that may not be specified. The numbers are lower the close you measure to the balance rail. You do what you can.
Semipro Tech
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the problem is that the real key (the lever) is the wooden part, the sharps, the covering, are just as clothes.
so the levers have some better configuration when the sharps can be set at their original height.
the higher a key is the less its leverage at the beginning of the move, so as you say we do as we can but sharps are often feeling heavier it is best to have them in a good position vs the white to limit the touch difference between both.
if we need to have the sharps very high, it happen their too thick front punching touch the underside of the white keys before they attain full dip.
never ideal touch wise to have thicker covering on the white keys, if they are not planed before rexovering.
I learned to measure the key height just under the ivory, this is how the Steinway dimensions are given. Other brands use the surface, not all, I think when ivories where common, the underside was the reference, as they may have different thicknesses may be, wear, sanding and polishing, for instance, so the joint height is more secure.
Last edited by Olek; 06/25/15 09:38 PM.
Professional of the profession. Foo Foo specialist I wish to add some kind and sensitive phrase but nothing comes to mind.!
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BDB,
It took you 3 posts to clearly exlain what you meant!
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Is it necessary to shoot down people for making multiple posts to clarify themselves. These threads are starting to degrade again due to the unfriendly attitude of some people. Moderators?
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I apologize for that. It is difficult to know the level of comprehension of those who are reading what I write, particularly when writing to people whose native language is different.
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From the book The Grand Keyboard and Action- Function and Regulation Nikolaus W. Schimmel (1995)
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Specifications can help get you close but I never use them. Setting samples and analyzing the feel gives the best result, IMHO. Also there are good visual tests you can do re:aftertouch, if you are not a good enough pianist to make a good judgement re:feel.
The wear on the parts can affect how well those specs work anyways. Plus, a piano can work optimally with a variety of let off/key dip/blow distance ratios. There's not one ideal for any piano, IMHO.
Search PW for my posts on the Regulation Triangje, a very fast way to zero in on the best settings for let off, blow distance, and key dip, for any piano, given a required setting for any two of the three. Those requirements could come from a spec sheet, the standard settings, or a performer's request. "I want less key dip", for example.
Hope that helps.
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Perhaps that is a legitimate method, but since some people have difficulty understanding that it is the same to measure up from the bottom as down from the top, I think people need a reference to begin with.
If you want to refer to something on the board more than once, I suggest that you keep a list of the URLs for the posts that you can embed when you need to, rather than tell people to search for it.
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Key dip is around 10mm and sharps height around 12.5 because that is well for the hand of the pianist. Then the moment the white keys are level influence the touch sensation. And there are limits due to interactions between parts.
One thing I noticed anyway is that a keyboard leveled at the expected height, is feeling way better than with the same after touch and 2mm higher or lower.
I actually can perceive that in the zones of the keyboard where the keys settle first (front of left and right hand). The minimal difference of less than 1mm in key height is sometime yet perceived, with a less accelerated stroke, less reactive. Feel better after a few paper punchings are added.
That is probably the reason why the middle of the keyboard is raised a little, a safety precaution.
A straight lining key level that slips a little is sooner perceived as misfunctionning.
Very sensitive on full size vertical pianos,for instance, despite the limited parts inertia.
Last edited by Olek; 06/27/15 02:33 PM.
Professional of the profession. Foo Foo specialist I wish to add some kind and sensitive phrase but nothing comes to mind.!
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Piano
by Gino2 - 04/17/24 02:34 PM
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Piano
by Gino2 - 04/17/24 02:23 PM
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