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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 52
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My Studiologic vmk controller keyboard (with fatar keybed) has a key only giving low velocity values. I am assuming cleaning the contacts is the first thing to try? I've googled it a bit; one guy talked about virtually taking everything apart. Watching some youtube clips on other keyboards the quicker, easier approach seems to be to take the relevant key off and clean the contacts. I managed to get an end key off but I think all I am seeing is the top of rubber boots and presumably this is one long strip with the contacts underneath so I won't be able to clean the contacts just by removing one key; I'll have to remove the circuit boards from underneath and the whole 76 note strip? Is that correct, or can I do it just by removing the faulty key? Any advice on this process greatly appreciated. If I have to take the whole thing out perhaps I should clean all 76 notes while at it?
P.S. I see the vmk is now discontinued? Any idea why; to me it looks like there may be nothing available now if you want a 76 (or even possibly 88) note piano weighted controller with at least 9 sliders and 8 knobs and switches. Maybe a Physis about which I know nothing yet but a quick look didn't seem to find anyone selling it in UK at present, and presumably you're paying quite a bit for an onboard piano sound I do not want?
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Need to get it fixed by Friday, so for reference in case anyone is interested this evening I took the brackets and one of the two pcbs off the underside of the keyboard. Fortunately there is one strip of rubber boots for each pcb and the faulty key was 7th in from one side so only had to peel back the strip of rubber boots to the 7th. That particular one does look slightly dirtier on one contact than the preceding 6, as if something has got in there, broken up into lots of very small pieces and got hammered onto the surfaces, it's not coming off easily. So tomorrow I'll try and get some cotton buds and contact cleaner. Just hope it all goes back together okay and works; as someone else commented, it's a lot of screws to remove.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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Hi Paul, any update? I just aquired a used Studiologic VMK 161. One key was slightly sticky, but that went away after I tilted the keyboard and triggered the key a couple of times. Sounded like a tiny bit of sand or cookie made it into the action.
I am considering taking it apart and cleaning it, even though the issue is gone.
Yes, it looks like the VMK are being discontinued. I count myself lucky to have gotten one. Although some stores may still have stock. Could it be that the Acuna (e.g. Acuna 73 model) are the successors?
Kawai CN35. Daughter wanted a piano, so we got one. Now who'll learn faster? ;-)
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Joined: Sep 2007
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Had a FATAR keybed DP ; the Numa Nero.
Ugh. After 2 years of very casual playing, two keys developed an issue and this after babying the DP.
I sold it to somebody who didn't care at a significant loss and vowed to never buy one again. Fool me once, shame on me...
Started playing in mid-June 2007. Self-taught... for now. :p
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Sounds like you are on the right track. It is a labor intensive task due to the amount of screws, although it is a simple fix in the end.
The way most sensors work is by using two triggers (one low-velocity and one high) per key, with a 2-contact membrane laid on top. The membrane's contacts have a very slight height difference - just enough so that the low velocity sensor triggers just before the high velocity one. The keyboard's sound generator calculates the time difference between both sensors being triggered, and uses that figure to determine velocity.
It sounds like the "high" sensor for your keyboard is dirty or otherwise not triggering which tricks your keyboard in to thinking the key is being played softly since it has no time difference to compare to. A simple cleaning of the contacts should (I stress, should) clear the issue. I have used rubbing alcohol on mine and it has worked ever since (about five years on an old Kurzweil K2500XS).
When you're rubbing on that PCB, be careful around the contacts as they can be damaged. You may notice some sticky yellow gunk. This is most likely flux from the soldering process. Try to keep it away from the contacts, but otherwise it isn't an issue whether it stays or goes.
Les C Deal
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Sorry, I meant to post an update, the repair worked but it didn't go quite as planned; during the repair I had clamped the keybed upright, but when I released the clamps several days later I had forgotten which way it was balanced and it fell on the electronics. When I first tried to use it it came on but no midi output, then it worked then it didn't... For a few weeks I thought it was because I had damaged something inside causing an intermittent connection, I spent quite a while closely inspecting everything, now I've realised it was a bad usb lead to the computer, although the usb lead was not the cause of the original key problem.
I did fix the key fault. I would say, depending which key it is it is probably about 1 to 3 hours total work. So here is my method:
I got some contact cleaner (in the UK Maplins or Halfords sell it), some cotton buds and an airduster can too to blow away any loose debris or dust.
Get several containers for all the screws. Have a range of screwdrivers to hand, there are about 4 different screw sizes I think, and some of the ones holding the brackets in place under the keys need a longish shank to be able to reach between the mechanisms under the keys.
Put the keyboard on a suitable stand (my keyboard stand was perfect) so when you get round to undoing the keybed retaining screws you don't have to tip it up.
Remove the screws holding the hinging 'lid' down and lift the lid. On the left are 2 ribbon cables (which I am guessing are for the aftertouch), the connectors for these come apart with almost no force - I don't know if you have to reconnect them correctly if they do both come apart or if it still works fine if you get them swapped. I was also a bit concerned that both these had exposed wires that might short out and the unsupported wires could potentially also get caught up in the key mechanisms - I would have preferred more friction in the connector, to insulate the exposed wires and tie them down. I found it easier to remove one or both of the plastic end panels - easier to get hold of the keybed when you need to lift it and easier to see what's going on.
From underneath remove the screws holding the keybed in place. I then tipped the keybed up 90 degrees and held in place with several clamps.
On mine there were 2 pcbs on the underside, these stretch the length of the keybed containing the contacts for each key along with the long strips of rubber boots containing the moving contacts. If you only want to repair one key you should only need to remove one pcb. First there are about 6 brackets to remove under each pcb. Then lots of screws holding the pcb on. I then lowered the relevant pcb onto the floor of the case. Depending on which key you want I think you will have to peel the long rubber strip back from one or other side (whichever is closest) until you get to the key. I gave the relevant contacts on the pcb and inside the rubber strip a clean with contact cleaner and a cotton bud - in my case it looked like something had broken into lots of tiny pieces and embedded in several contacts. Once cleaned I tried not to touch any contacts and to keep everything clean and dust free.
REASSEMBLY: The first bit was the worst bit I found, unless there's a better way, but getting the rubber boot strip back in place was quite fiddly. There's lots of little spigots that have to go back in holes in the pcb and they are a tight fit. My technique was to get several spigots at a time started in the right holes, then apply firm pressure with a finger while gently moving round directly over each hole, gradually they go fully in.
Then reassemble everything else in reverse order. Make sure the ribbon connectors on the left are still connected and are not going to get caught in the keys. Hope it works!
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Yes, it's a shame the vmk is discontinued, it's relatively cheap and I love the 3 different sizes; 88 note, 76 and 61 and have one of each. The only thing I really missed was the lack of zones and banks. Now I've invested in a Physis K5 controller, but had to get that abroad and it seems I might have got the last K5 in europe. I've just had another look at the Acuna and realised I had been missing something - I wasn't seeing the sliders, knobs and buttons, now I realize you connect a touchscreen instead to get them. I think I still prefer real sliders and buttons and not sure knobs work well on a touchscreen - I'm using a touchscreen computer/tablet (pro3) but still feel the need to control everything on it via real buttons and sliders and knobs, so I hope this is not the start of a trend away from real sliders, buttons etc, in which case I'm very glad I got 2 K5's when I did. I also don't quite understand why 73note is becoming more popular; I find 76 note is the ideal compromise and I'd miss those last 3 notes at the top too much for serious piano work. But if can get by without those notes then I find the 61 note is ideal, so I preferred their 88, 76, 61 options they offered on the vmk.
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Joined: Jan 2015
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Paul, thanks a ton for that detailed write up! That will come handy!
Kawai CN35. Daughter wanted a piano, so we got one. Now who'll learn faster? ;-)
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