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Hi everyone
I have recently got a Hugo Hennig upright piano that i am planning on restoring. first thing i checked is the pinblock. It is made of just 2 laminated boards a thin one towards the strings and a thicker ( 4 cm ) The thin board has vertical cracks and seems to delaminate. The thick board looks fine and has no vertical or horizontal cracks.

Have you ever seen this type of pinblock?
i am thinking of replacing the thin pinblock board that cam loose with new laminated pinblock plywood and some how match the holes with the ones in the thick board. Is this the right ting to do?

Thanks

Not to put you down...But, have you any experience along this line?...Upright pinblock replacement is not a small task. Anyone can cut wood and drill holes- but there is much more to it than that.
If pinblock needs replacing- replace the entire block. But, this is a tedious and technical task- even for professionals.
Too many bad things could happen trying to piece it in.

Not clear. Which direction? Just put glue in and replace screws with bolts all the way through.

Rick_Parks, i have no hands on experience with pianos.
I have tools, Google and a book .

This piano has a weird construction with just a 2 layer pinblock.
The large solid wood block behind the cracked board is in good condition, no cracks so no need to replace that. here are some pics

Here you can see how the pinblock was build. the top part came loose with a few taps
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ops5nvtum4l4ho/Photo%2011-02-2017%2C%2023%2028%2017.jpg?dl=0

Here is the trebble part still in one piece but with a couple of vertical cracks. notice it is much thinner than the bass bart
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jv6istmcnddzoll/Photo%2011-02-2017%2C%2023%2029%2013.jpg?dl=0

And here is an image with tha large chunk of wood behind the thin board that came off
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qph7nk4zujbl526/Photo%2011-02-2017%2C%2023%2029%2034.jpg?dl=0

Actually it was not an uncommon thing to have a solid pinblock in the old days, or a couple layers... It wasn't practice to use the multi-ply method that today's pianos use.



Well that should make for quite an adventure
But, I do think you are going to run into trouble...
For instance, you'll have to align the holes just right in the top layer- or you'll have a bad development there...A precise pattern will be required.
You also will have to get that top layer off smoothly, and make sure your surface is clean and level...
You'll also probably have trouble finding block material from a supplier that is thin enough for your project...Sizing it just right too... Remember, the pins have a specific height from pinblock-- wrong down bearing on the string at the v-bar (or agraffes) will lead to breaking strings upon full tension, and could cause undesirable tone qualities- if you recess the tuning pins too deep (or too shallow) compared to the original setting of the original pinblock.

In my opinion this is certainly not a venture for a beginner.
You're a braver soul than I would be in your circumstance.

- just my thoughts though...
Would wish you luck, but I don't believe in luck

Clean the joints. Plane the pin block material to the right size. Drill lining holes to line up the new and old parts. Cut the new and old part so they fit. Make pin type objects that are pointy and just longer than the holes in the old piece. Put the sharp pin type objects in the holes. Hammer the new part into the sharp pins. Use the impressions to drill holes at the right size and angle. Clamp and glue new part onto old part.

Sounds simple.

What's going on here this last times? I had never seen so many people willing to do something they have never done being adviced by someone who has never done it neither.

This is a weird Technicians Forum!

If I was giving my advice I would tell "leave it alone" but as I have never replaced a pinblock I will let the experienced ones to chime in and perhaps learn a little from them.

Trying to warn, and say basically the same thing, only less blunt if possible. I was in no way trying to tell the person how to do this- or even trying to give them the idea that they could do it. Only trying to discourage them, through saying some of the things that could go wrong.


Agreed. Or, as I said- if the pinblock IS bad- the whole thing should be replaced (a job for more experienced and skilled).

Costin,

Just to add to my suggestion. I have replaced many bridge caps and done pin block repairs similar to the one you are going to do.

This sounds like a great project for many reasons.

1) This piano looks like it is at the end of its days. I don't think you can damage it any more than it is. You can only make it better.

2) It is the means and not the end, that give joy to some. I imagine you enjoying the act of working with wood, and the possibility of a good outcome. I also imagine you would not be too upset if it didn't work out, but I think you will be successful anyway.

P.S. Forgot to add that you should screw the pin cap onto the base.

Thank you all.

Mark you are right. If the fix doesn't work then it will make a good fire or a nice storage thing for my kids' toys.

This should be interesting.

I'll keep you guys updated

Thanks again !

Hi guys,

i got my pinblock material with some extra to practice on

My questions are:
- how big should the oversized pins be so that the old solid pinblock doesnt crack but still get enough grip to stai in tune.
- what size should the drill bit be compared to the pin size, i can get drill bits in 0.1 mm increments

Thanks

I know that in the USA there is a" manufactured" composite wood which was very popular for use in replacement pinblocks - sorry but I can not remember its name. Anybody out there recall ?

Ha ! Looked for the name of the manufacture of the engineered wood and it is some place in Germany - the nmaterial is called "Delignit" and many sites offer pin-blocks made of this. However, it seems you are now set up - best of luck.