Hello All- I have a 1916 AA 6'3" Mason-Hamlin. It seems the piano was restrung with the original block sometime in its life. The pins are a bit loose. My technician does not reccommend pounding the pins (will change the angle of the string to the pin from that of parallel to the plate). He suggets using super glue in the pins, which he has used with success. This is a man who knows pianos. Still, I am open to opinions of others. Restringing the piano is not an option. Many thanks, M Goodman, Cleveland PS Soon I will put in new hammers and would like to use those as close to what was in the piano in 1916. I am leaning towards Ronson Wertzen Hammers. Any thoughts about this?

I whole-heartedly agree w/your tech. Not only can the epoxy treatment solve the loose pins but it can also strengthen the block. It's nice to see that your tech has offered you less-invasive (and less expensive) options rather than insisting upon replacing the block which would require re-stringing. Also, many tech/rebuilders look at that as being an opportunity to replace the soundboard too. My rule of thumb is that if you have a first rate piano, make every effort to keep it all original. Good luck, Walt

By the way- the super glue is not epoxy- it's Cyanoacrylate, aka CA glue. This method sometimes works very well, sometimes it helps a little.
Another possibility is to re-pin-- replace just the tuning pins with a larger diameter.. if the pin block isn't cracked.

Hello Folks,

I haven't written in a while since getting my new computer because I usually limit myself to tuning and regulation questions but I thought I'd jump in here because I have nearly 4 decades of experience, including rebuilding with new pinblocks. Someone else also recently asked about "pounding" vs. CA glue treatment.

Generally, I would not recommend driving tuning pins in further. The only exception is on the very few pianos I've seen, mostly lower cost verticals where the pins had not actually been driven in enough in the first place. Some of these seemed to have skipped the coil dressing and seating station at the factory. Some also were rebuilt pianos with very solid new pinblock material such as Falconwood where the holes were drilled too small and so initially, the pins were tight when left high. In either case, the pinblock material is still good, so driving in the pin to the proper depth (but not beyond) will restore a good amount of torque.

In just about any other case however, driving the pin in further, especially in small grands will cause the pin to go to the bottom of the hole or even further, gaining nothing at all. If the pinblock is delaminating (and you may not be able to actually see that it is), all you will do by pounding is further damage it.

Before CA glue was available, I sometimes used wood epoxy thinned to a water like consistency with acetone which would soak in to all voids including those between laminations. It always had a positive effect but also produced a somewhat "jumpy", squeaky feel. When the water thin CA clue became available, it not only had a positive effect but often produced what could be considered a remarkably normal feel to the pins afterwards and for many years following the treatment.

A few things to keep in mind: for a vertical, you need to tip the piano back, all the way if you can but 45 degreed will also work sufficiently. In grands, slip some folded newspaper between the pinblock and the action flanges. You can take the action out, yes but even when you put it back in, you should do this to catch any drips which might occur after treatment. Allow the CA glue to cure without an accelerator at least overnight. That will allow it to penetrate as much as it can and cure more solidly rather than have the weakening effect the accelerator can cause.

When applying CA glue, you need to do it during weather warm enough to have doors and windows open and to have fans on that will provide a strong cross draft to carry away the fumes. The fumes aren't toxic as such but are highly irritating like tear gas or pepper spray. Any kind of mask will help but a good filter mask and goggles to keep the fumes out of your eyes is best. There will also be an odor in the room for at least a couple of hours after treatment, so you need to have the customer leave the fans on for at least 2-3 hours after treatment.

On some of these pianos where rebuilding is not an option, CA glue pinblock treatment one day, leaving some newspaper between the pinblock and hammer flanges, then returning the following day or days later when you have an appointment available, is all that is needed to cure the problem of loose tuning pins for many years to come. Of course, in the case where the material is just too far gone and the pins have already been pounded, nothing short of a new pinblock will work. I have seen a number of times a pinblock that looks OK, no visible delamination from what can be observed from the outside but after treatment, the stain of the CA glue seeping between the laminations and showing on the edge of the pinblock can be seen. This is clearly a case where the CA glue treatment actually repairs and restores the integrity of the material as well as renewing its function.

Quite right - CA glue. Sorry, I mis-spoke

Ronsen Wurtzen hammers are very nice to work with.

Ray at Ronsen will work with you to replicate the originals.

The Ronsen Wurtzen have a very nice voice right "out of the box" and easily voice in a variety of directions if needed.

Great post Bill.