I have a newly purchased Ibach 183 that is in need of damper regulation. Unfortunately it is located in a place with no piano technicians. But I have a fair capability regulating and voicing having taken care of the previous piano for 10 years at that location.
The bass was all thuddy sounding and although the dampers were clearing by 2mm or so I noticed that the hammers travelled quite a bit further before lifting the damper than in the tenor where the sound was good. I regulated the damper spoons in the bass so that the dampers started lifting earlier in the bass section and the sound is WAY better! Like that is what I heard in the showroom. (This is a restored 1977 piano that was shipped from Germany still I am confused how the dampers got out of regulation).
Anyhow - questions on clearances etc. I am assuming the pedal should activate the damper bar immediately and the 1/4" of slack should be between when the damper bar starts lifting and when it engages with the capstans under the damper levers. Correct? Or do I need to drop all of the damper levers onto the damper lift rail and have the play in the trapwork?
Next question - how far above the strings should the dampers go when the key is fully depressed? I have the feeling that even in the treble if the dampers were a tad higher (currently around 2mm or so) I would be getting more excitement in my life.
Are there standard regulation distances that were published for the Ibach 183 like there are for my Grotrian 192? Nobody seems to be manning the Ibach website anymore (so sad, what a nice piano design this is).
Thanks for any help.
Jerry
hello , damper lift for flat dampers is about 5 mm.
the "mid blow" lift can be regulated a little early in the treble, less in mediums, a little less in basses (about 1 mm difference)
Idem with the sustain peal the lift begins in the treble, then mediums then basses (allows for "half pedal)
The tray is in contact with the rod transmission, no play.
But some play before the dampers move (about the same as in a car the gas pedal)
Upper stop rail for the dampers is regulated at full dip (or full dip plus tonal peal if any as the dampers lift a hair more ( mm) with the pedal fully engaged - generally) so the sharps are touching the felt - (generally) then the white keys will have a very small play. (the back of sharps raise more than the back of white keys)
If a whole range of dampers do not lift enough it could be that an axis of the tray have moved - I would check that.an the damper rail too. verify the leers line well the becket for the tonal/sustenuto pedal must line perfectly.
The tray also may be bowed. Not a real problem if you have spoons and capstans - see if the dampers underlevers are lining.
While you are at it, install a stop felt (hard felt) or even better a capstan plus a felt, to stop the pedal lever at full position. (under the piano) If not, the sustain peal will allow the dampers levers to push on the stop rail an will put it out of regulation.
It is also not good for the pianist to have a too long peal motion.
With time, the dampers compress and their timing get early.
The lever at rest must line correctly , the spoons do not need to be bend a lot up or down.
The lining of the contact point in regard of the "line of centers
That is only modified by the thickness of the key cushion. so it should not be a problem in your case.
Also if you are not trained with dampers do not unscrew the wires.
for instance I installed a set of dampers with the levers too low. I had to bend up the spoons.
during the key stroke first the end of the spoon touch the key cushion, then it was the wire of the spoon than touched the edge of the felt.
There was a sort of heavy point during the stroke due to that leverage change (plus in time wear will happen)
A too much bend own spoon could also create trouble
I said that because if the damper stack have moved it may have changed the relation to the line of centers.
Goo luck with the job
Do you have the Flemming action on that piano ?