Two Tier Keyboard Stands

Does anyone have any experience with the Quickloc Z-726L Z style stands?



I have been using a sturdy Yamaha Z style stand for my MOX6. Now that I am adding an 88 key digital piano I need a 2nd tier. The stand I have does not have an option for a 2nd tier.

The beauty of the Z-726 is that the 2nd tier support pieces can move laterally. Most Z stands have them attached to the legs so they are always at the same width. I would even be able to offset the position of the top board if that was ever desirable. There are a lot of accessory attachments available. I could see the offset keyboard making room for an iPad.


I am a little annoyed with Yamaha for making the bottom front edge of the MOX rounded. I think it will have the potential to slide over the "hooks" of the top tier supports. A sharper corner design would have been more sensible. I do not believe the rounded edge adds anything aesthetically. It is just a poor design choice IMO. It seems to violate general rules of functionality with there being such a strong chance of a 61 key synth ending up on a 2nd tier.

I have that exact stand and am very happy with it.

I have it set up as per the pic you posted and its very very sturdy.

Oddly the instructions (if you can call them that) give you a diagram showing it built the other way around. The back bar that holds the second tier can bolt onto either end, and they show it bolted on what would be the front of your pic.

Can't find a pic of the actual stand the way round my instructions said to build, but this pic of a similar stand will show what I mean.



I initially assembled it like that but found the bottom cross bar got in my way so I made it like your pic (and every other pic on the web) and I can't fault it.

Update: I received the stand a few days ago and just opened it this evening. It is shipped in a large box with another slightly smaller box fitting inside. Within the inner box are loose parts and a couple of smaller boxes. From the outside there were a couple of minor looking abrasions on the box but it looked like typical scuffs from shipping.

Once I pulled the slightly smaller box out and opened it I could see the smaller boxes looked like they had exploded. They had large holes and tears. Apparently, the outer box withstood some hard knocks but the inner boxes absorbed the shock of the parts moving around. Looking for damage to the stand, eventually I found a plastic knob that had shattered.

I am hoping to get the knob replaced without having to repack, ship back and have a replacement stand shipped. Everything is fine except a knob. It is too much hassle exchanging an entire stand to replace a knob.

I have not assembled it yet. I do not see where the washers belong. There are no instructions just a few pictures with the stand disassembled and arrows indicating where and how they fit.

I had a similar problem (shattered knob) when I purchased a pair of Quiklok speaker stands. I used some epoxy glue to repair the knob, and it has been OK for over three years.

Unfortunately, there is no hope for such a repair. This knob was in tiny bits and I could only reassemble a few larger pieces. I was planning to keep the stand and get a replacement knob, either through the place of purchase or out of my own pocket. However, today I decided to return the whole thing.

The stand is larger and has a significant footprint compared to the Yamaha I have been using for my MOX. I do like the strength and build quality but I do not need it to support two very light keyboards (Yamaha MOX6 and Casio PX 350). This sticks out from the wall an additional 7" and the lowest level for the bottom keyboard is 2.5" higher than my Yamaha stand. Due to design, the Casio PX 350 keys are 2" higher than the keys of the MOX measuring from the bottom of the chassis. The PX 350 needs to be on the bottom tier. This leaves the Casio keys 4.5" higher than I want.

I am going to try some universal 2nd tier supports that hopefully will fit my Yamaha stand. I had considered them but some reviews have indicated there could be some problems in the design. I have to try them and see if they will work.

Update: I ended up getting a universal 2nd tier and it has been working out for me. The kit is of decent material and build quality. With a PX350 below and a MOX6 on top it is still solid with very little movement. I had to flip the Yamaha stand around from the way I was using it because there was a screw going through the piping where the 2nd tier would attach. I thought this might be a problem because there is a cross bar that came close to hitting my knee caps but it turned out to be roomy enough to accommodate my legs.

The reason I am updating this is because this evening I was recording something with my computer so I could not use it to set up a software plug-in sound source. For the first time since adding the 2nd tier keyboard I used the built-in speakers on the PX350. Well, I will not be playing through the built-in speakers often. They sound terrible with the sound bouncing off the 2nd tier board. I can hear all of the electronic artifacts of an amplified sound similar to having my ear right at the speaker and probably worse because the bottom of the 2nd tier keyboard is smooth plastic without any dampening material (I imagine cloth or a sheet of some sort of absorbent material would improve this).

The internal sounds through the built-in speakers really benefit from open air space. I also realized just how superior my piano plug-in is. To my ears I get a sound as good as anything I hear in commercial recordings. It is such a pleasure to play the PX350 with a software piano plug-in. My plug-in of choice is Galaxy's The Giant. The piano's internal sounds played through the built-in speakers bouncing off the top tier keyboard can only be tolerated if I want to play and have no other choice. I will hook up my headphones to the Casio in the future. To be clear, this is not any fault in the piano. It is a consequence of the change in environment that the piano is played within.

This (a) is what I added to this (b):

a.

b.

I have (a) above and it does its job OK, but whilst you can adjust the angle of the second keyboard you can't adjust either its height above the main one nor how far forward/back it is. Pesonally I'd rather have it flatter, lower and further back, which isn't possible with this attachment.

It does level off for the "flatter" adjustment but I guess you may be concerned about it sliding off or moving if it is not slightly inclined forward so it rests in the grip of the front hooks.

How well it fits your preferences also depends on the keyboards.

The PX350 is not deep but it is tall in height so it brings the top and bottom keyboards closer yet I think I would like the 2nd tier about 2"-3" above the bottom (just enough to get my hand between them. I do not need access to any buttons other than the On/Off switch.

Once you decrease the space between the top and bottom keyboards you need the ability to move the bottom forward and the top back.

Because the Casio is not very deep, the depth of the base stand has room for me to slide the Casio forward. The MOX is also not as deep as the top tier so there is room to slide it back though it would no longer rest on the front hooks. That could be compensated with two pieces of black pipe insulation from Home Depot.

The lowest setting of the base stand is higher than ideal with the Casio being taller. The height was perfect when the MOX was on the lower level.

As it is now I can use it and the footprint is much more compact than the larger 2-tier Z frame I tried.