Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key

Posted by: mnrGrooveMovement

Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 10/27/08 09:19 AM


I have a stuck key on my Yamaha P-250 keyboard. Its not completely stuck but the response is alot slower, and sometimes the key doesn't return at all. I plan to take the casing off and see if I can get inside and poke around or try to re-set the key.

I'm pretty disappointed by it though, and I don't know if its worse that it happened while moving it or whether it is a result of humidity/someone's spilled drink, etc.

If anyone has suggestions for repairing, or has had a similar problem I'd like your input. Thanks.
Posted by: jjtpiano

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 10/27/08 11:31 AM

If you've bent the board in front of the keys, that will cause the problem you describe.

Get a technician who's experienced with Yamaha stage pianos, and he can fix it.

Humidity or spilled drinks won't cause the problem you describe.
Posted by: mnrGrooveMovement

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 10/28/08 10:30 AM

Thanks. I talked to a technician and they said it could be a couple hundred to repair. Would it be a terrible idea to just try sanding the side of the key to see if that fixes the problem before turning it over to the technician?

Also, any idea how to open up the casing? I can see it is on hinges in the back but I can't seem to see how it opens.

Thanks for the advice.
Posted by: jjtpiano

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 10/28/08 11:08 AM

A couple of hundred sounds high.

If you want to try to fix it yourself, my first thought would be to try to get the board back straight. I don't think I'd ever try sanding the keys. I'd stick up a gas station to get the couple of hundred first.

If you look underneath the keyboard, you'll see any number of phillips headed screws. You have to take them all out, remembering where they go back, because some are different sizes.

Also, you might want to call another technician. Mine would do it for the cost of a service call, $85.
Posted by: jscomposer

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 10/28/08 10:51 PM

FORGET technicians. They're a total ripoff, not to mention they take weeks to do something that takes an hour or two because they have other repairs and need to wait for parts. The P250 as more bells and whistles than my P80, but the action should be similar. I've taken apart my P80 numerous times to fix the very problem you're talking about.

Keys get warped after years of extensive playing. Look very closely at the key in question. Does it look a little off? I mean, even SLIGHTLY off? If it is, then it's simply the plastic key itself. Just call Yamaha's parts department and order a new one. Take the hood off, remove the key, and replace it. It's a bit involved, but once you see how it works, it's really not a big deal.

The way it works on mine, is you have to bend out the felt strip under the hammer in order to let the hammer extend beyond the felt strip. This will release the key. Remove the key and put the hammer and felt back into place. To install the new key, you just hook the thin metal thingy (for lack of a better term) into the rear of the new key, dip the front end of the key below the surface and hook it into some other thingy down there, and then snap the rear into place. Yeah, I'm not describing it well because I don't know the names of all the little parts, but you'll figure it out.

Just be careful when removing the hood that you don't yank off any wiring that connects the two pieces.

I once took my P80 to a tech and while it seemed that he fixed the problem, I found out later when I took it apart myself that he didn't do a damn thing. Luckily, it was under warranty at the time and I didn't have to pay for it. So I recommend you try to fix it yourself.
Posted by: WayneB

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 01/02/09 06:59 PM

There's a useful thread on one way to repair this type of problem at:


Posted by: Emmery

Re: Yamaha P-250 Stuck Key - 02/19/09 02:28 PM

Generally you will find the broken piece inside and can glue it back on. Use a plastic bonder with an pre-activator such as the Loctites brand and notch two dovetailed type slots into the broken part to add strength on the joint. If theres not enough material to do that then lightly score the mating surfaces with an exacto knife. Do not use CA glue, regular epoxies, or PVC cement...the joint will fail and possibly become contaminated for any further gluing attempts.